Forum Title: storm door
I installed a Tradewinds Larson storm door. Everything was a breeze, awesome door, took me a little over an hour start to finish as I am a contractor. My problem is that the last 3 inches of the door closing slams. It's a heavy door, but it has 2 closers, so that should handle the weight. I contacted Larson and they directed me to their website where I trouble shot the issue. They have sent me 3 new closers, but despite me adjusting and trying every possible closure hole positioning adjustment, it still slams---and I mean slams---the last 3 inches of closure. I am at wits end---taking the door back for another one isn't the answer. The door closer speeds work great---fast or slow from the open position on the way to closing until it gets to the 3 inch gap, pauses, and slams!. Any suggestions at all? I am absolutely stumped.
Category: Windows & Doors Post By: FERNANDO WARNER (Macon, GA), 01/11/2019

Almost any DH storm window nowadays will be self storing, where both sashes operate. But you need to look for triple track. With dual track storms, the screen is usually under the top sash, preventing it from being lowered.

- LORRAINE DAY (Rochester, MN), 03/05/2019

Makes no sense....familiar with houses there and unless its a modular should fit. Are you measuring between the brickmold on the door? Most screendoor boxes have some info right on the box. If not, measuring info should be available at the makers website.

- ELIZABETH JONES (Elyria, OH), 02/21/2019

Lumberyards, not big box, generally stock 78 prehung doors. They carry the full manufacturers warranty, provided they are properly finished after installation. Or they can cut a door to fit, with a jamb, ready for installation.

- KRISTINA SINGH (Cicero, IL), 02/02/2019

The sweep is for expanding the door. It won't do anything if the opening height is less than the minimum required by the door. Wood core storm doors can be cut down in length, no problem. Most other's no, because the bottom extrusion can't be modified.

- Clark John (Tampa, FL), 02/07/2019

Unhook both of the closers from the door and let them fully retract. The closer keeper that is mounted on the door should be positioned so that you only need to pull one closer 1/4 to connect it, and the other maybe 3/8. If that is what they are currently set at, and it is still slamming, you just need to move the keeper a few notches farther away from the hinge side jamb. Actually, you are lucky that it slams because most doors have the opposite problem, especially when the interior door is shut, and the glass windows are closed. There often isn't enough slamming power to get the door to latch as it traps the air that is caught between the two doors. Storm doors often slam when the interior door is open, but when it's closed, they latch more slowly. All storm door instructions (that I know of) say to position the inside edge of the closer pivot bar approximately 1/4 away from the hinge side z-bar. If it is farther away, it increases the spring tension as you open the door, making it more difficult to push open.

- JANET ROBERTS (Lynchburg, VA), 02/24/2019

Remember also, storm doors are commonly installed on the brickmold or trim on the outside of the frame. They do have inside mount kits, but they aren't nearly as common back east as they are out here in the land of

- JONATHAN FLORES (Chattanooga, TN), 02/19/2019

Ok, so I have to see what the rough opening is for that door. I'll take some pics the next time I'm there.

- BILLY DIAZ (St. Louis Park, MN), 02/20/2019

Great advice, guys---I will give it a shot this weekend

- FRANCES PHILLIPS (Newton, MA), 02/04/2019

I just realized that you are in MA where they use New England Z Bars since many older homes have only 3/4 brick-mold. With this, you can pick-up 1/2 between the doors. Go to a local window and door company or maybe it's common enough in MA that HD may have them.

- NAOMI BLAIR (Flint, MI), 02/14/2019

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